Screen Printing Glitter
Quick Answer: Screen printing with glitter comes down to two numbers: mesh count and mixing ratio. Use a low mesh screen — around 25 to 40 threads per inch — because a standard mesh blocks the particles. Start the glitter at 10–20% by volume of the ink, then test. Fine glitter (0.008"–0.015") passes a 40-mesh screen; chunkier grades need a lower mesh still.
The Mesh Number Comes First
If glitter ink will not pass through the screen, nothing else about the mix matters. Mesh count is the constraint that everything else works around.
25 to 40 mesh is the working range for glitter inks. Standard garment printing runs far higher — often 110 to 156 mesh — because a finer mesh holds finer detail. Glitter particles are far larger than ink pigment, so a standard screen simply blocks them.
Lower mesh means a thicker ink deposit. That is what glitter needs: enough ink film to carry the particles and hold them on the fabric. It also means less detail — a 25-mesh screen cannot hold a fine line or small lettering.
The particle decides the floor. If the glitter is 0.008" across, the screen opening has to be larger than that. A 40-mesh screen has openings around 0.006"–0.010" depending on thread diameter, which is why fine glitter is the practical ceiling for mesh-printed work.
Design accordingly: glitter prints are bold graphics, not fine detail. If a design needs both, they are usually two separate screens rather than one.
Matching Glitter Size to the Screen
| Glitter grade | Approximate size | Mesh that works | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ultra fine | 0.004"–0.008" | 40–60 mesh | Smoothest print, closest to a shimmer ink |
| Fine | 0.008"–0.015" | 30–40 mesh | The practical default for glitter ink |
| Medium | 0.02"–0.04" | 25–30 mesh | Visible flake; detail drops further |
| Chunky | 0.1"+ | Below 25, or not printable | Usually applied by hand rather than screened |
These are starting points, not absolutes — thread diameter varies between screen suppliers, so the actual opening size differs at the same mesh count. Test the specific combination before committing to a run. If you are choosing between grades for a design, our chunky vs fine comparison covers how particle size changes the application method.
How Much Glitter to Add to Ink
The commonly published starting point is 10% to 20% glitter by volume. That gives a visible sparkle without compromising the ink's ability to print and cure.
Start low. Glitter loading is not linear in effect. Going from 10% to 20% increases the sparkle noticeably. Going from 20% to 40% tends to produce a thicker, harder-to-print mix with diminishing visual return — and a higher risk of the print cracking.
Practical measuring. By volume rather than weight is the standard approach because glitter and ink have very different densities. A common rule of thumb in small-batch mixing is one part glitter to two parts ink — roughly 33% — but that is at the high end and should be tested before use on a production run.
The ink matters. Plastisol holds glitter in suspension differently than water-based ink. A water-based ink with high glitter loading can dry in the screen and clog; plastisol is more forgiving for glitter work. Our solvent-resistant glitter is the grade to check when the ink or sealer contains a solvent.
Mixing and Printing
Mix small batches. Glitter settles. A large batch sitting in the screen will separate over a run, giving a dense print at the start and a bare one at the end.
Stir before every print pass, or close to it. The single most effective habit for consistency on a glitter run.
Use a thicker ink deposit. A low mesh plus a slower, firmer squeegee stroke lays down the film the glitter needs. A fast, light stroke leaves particles sitting on top of the fabric rather than embedded in ink.
Check the print after the first pull. Adjust either the ratio or the squeegee pressure before printing the run. Glitter problems compound.
Curing
A glitter print needs the same cure as any plastisol print, and glitter loading makes the film thicker.
Check the actual ink temperature, not the dryer setting. The film has to reach cure temperature through its full thickness, and a glitter-loaded film is thicker than a plain one.
Under-cured glitter ink washes out and cracks. The glitter is not the failure — the ink around it is.
Over-curing scorches the garment. Same rule as any print: measure, do not guess.
The Mistakes That Ruin a Glitter Screen Print
Using a standard mesh. A 110 or 156 screen blocks glitter particles. The ink passes, the glitter does not, and the print comes out patchy.
Overloading the ink. Past the usable ratio the mix stops printing cleanly and the cured film cracks. More glitter does not keep improving the look.
Not stirring. Separation over a run produces an inconsistent print from first piece to last.
Expecting fine detail. A low mesh cannot hold it. Glitter designs need to be bold to work.
Judging the cure by the dryer display. The film temperature is what matters, and a thicker glitter film takes longer to reach it.
Frequently Asked Questions
What mesh count do I need for glitter ink?
Generally 25 to 40 threads per inch. Standard garment meshes of 110 to 156 are far too fine and will block the particles. Lower mesh deposits more ink, which is what carries the glitter. Finer glitter can go through a slightly higher mesh.
How much glitter do I mix into screen printing ink?
Start at 10% to 20% glitter by volume. Some small-batch guides use one part glitter to two parts ink, which is around 33% and at the high end. Higher loading makes the ink harder to print and the cured film more likely to crack.
Can I screen print chunky glitter?
Generally not. Chunky flake is too large to pass a printable mesh, and the mesh needed to pass it would not hold any design detail. Chunky glitter is normally applied by hand — sprinkled onto a wet adhesive print and then sealed — rather than screened.
Why is my glitter ink printing patchy?
Usually one of three causes: the mesh is too fine for the particle size, the glitter has settled in the screen because the ink was not stirred, or the squeegee stroke is too light to lay down enough film to carry the particles.
Does glitter work in water-based ink?
It can, but water-based ink dries in the screen and a heavy glitter load accelerates clogging. Plastisol is the more forgiving system for glitter work. If using water-based, mix smaller batches and keep the screen moving.
Do I need to cure glitter prints differently?
Same cure temperature, but check the actual film temperature rather than the dryer setting. A glitter-loaded film is thicker than a plain print, so it takes longer to reach cure through its full thickness. Under-cured glitter ink cracks and washes out.
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